Oud: Origin, fragrance variety and significance of the aromatic wood

What is oud? Agarwood is formed by fungal infestation

Oud, also called agarwood or eaglewood, refers to the dark, resinous, fragrant heartwood of Aquilaria trees , which is formed through a special interaction between tree and fungus. Healthy Aquilaria wood is light-colored and barely aromatic. Only injuries or fungal infestation trigger the formation of streaks of resin in the wood: As a defense reaction against the intruder, the tree produces a dark, resin-rich oleoresin that gradually permeates the wood. Over the course of years or even decades, the coveted agarwood with its intense fragrance develops. Various molds have been scientifically identified as triggers, such as Fusarium species, whose inoculation induces the formation of typical agarwood aromatic substances. Only a small fraction (estimated at less than 10%) of Aquilaria trees spontaneously produce this type of resin in nature, which explains the extreme rarity of genuine oud. The result of this biological "accident" is one of the most expensive woods in the world . It has an earthy, animalistic, leathery scent with a complex , spicy-woody note that has been prized for millennia.

Different types of oud and their fragrance profiles

Depending on their origin and tree species, oud fragrances vary significantly in character. Factors such as Aquilaria species , geographical climate, and traditional processing methods shape the fragrance profile. In international trade, oud oils are often valued according to their country of origin; in the Gulf region, for example, Indian oud is considered the highest quality, followed by Cambodian and Malaysian oud. Here is an overview of the key varieties:

• Indian Oud (Assam Oud) is considered the "king" of oud varieties. It usually comes from Aquilaria malaccensis from Assam, India. It typically has a deep, earthy, and leathery aroma with distinct animalic overtones and spicy smokiness. This oud initially appears very intense and almost "dark," but the heavy notes soften over time. As a base note , high-quality Indian oud provides tremendous depth and projection in perfumes and remains noticeable for hours or even days.

• Cambodian Oud , also called Cambodi-Oud, comes from the Aquilaria crassna tree in Indochina. It is characterized by a softer, sweeter fragrance profile . Notes of honey, ripe fruit, and warm spice combine with earthy, resinous undertones. Cambodian Oud appears more approachable and "friendlier" than Indian Oud; it has been described as "princely" in comparison to the powerful King Assam. It is often suitable for daytime fragrances because it is not overwhelmingly heavy.

• Malaysian Oud This oud (locally called Gaharu ) comes primarily from Aquilaria malaccensis or cultivated hybrids in Malaysia. Its fragrance is bold, smoky, and spicy-woody . Malaysian oud is known for an intense, mystical aura with slightly peppery and resinous notes reminiscent of incense. It is a powerful fragrance component that adds depth and exotic character to perfumes. Its striking presence makes it popular in opulent evening fragrances and oriental perfumes.

• Laotian Oud: Obtained from wild agarwood in Laos, it is considered particularly balanced . The Laotian oud fragrance is described as deep and rich, yet gently sweet . A honeyed warmth meets balsamic-woody and subtle earthy tones, giving the aroma an inviting softness despite its intensity . This balance makes Laotian oud appealing both to oud novices and to connoisseurs who appreciate a complex yet smooth profile.

(There are also other regional variants, such as Thai oud with a complex, multi-layered scent ranging from smoky to sweet, Vietnamese oud (also known as Kyara , the highest Japanese quality grade) with balsamic elegance, and much more. What they all have in common, however, is their rare origin from resin-producing Aquilaria trees and an unmistakably intense aroma.)

Use in perfumery “liquid gold” of fragrances

In modern perfumery , oud is highly prized for its unique fragrance and its fixing properties. The essential oil of agarwood, obtained by steam distillation or CO₂ extraction of resin-impregnated wood pieces, is thick, dark, and so valuable that it is often referred to as "liquid gold." Even small amounts of this natural fragrance are sufficient to imbue a perfume with a distinctive depth. Oud unfolds its effect as a base note over the course of a fragrance: While light top notes (e.g., citrus, floral accords) quickly fade, oud lingers for hours , anchoring the composition with its woody-balsamic, slightly smoky nuances.

Distillation of oud oil: Resin-rich agarwood is boiled with water in traditional stills to extract the coveted oud oil . This concentrated essential oil contains hundreds of aromatic molecules and forms the basis of many luxury perfumes (shown here is a production example from Assam, India).

Perfumers prefer to use real oud in oriental and woody-leather fragrances , often in combination with rose, sandalwood, amber or spices to create opulent fragrance profiles. The note became well-known in Western fragrances through Yves Saint Laurent “M7” (2002), one of the first mainstream men's fragrances to feature oud, as well as through exclusive fragrances such as Tom Ford “Oud Wood” (2007) . Since then, numerous luxury brands have launched their own oud perfumes (e.g. Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Oud Satin Mood , Dior, Oud Ispahan , Amouage, Oud Ulya ), and the term “oud” has become synonymous with exotic, luxurious fragrance creations . However, real oud essence is extremely expensive; pure agarwood oil can be more expensive than gold per kilogram. Therefore, many commercial "oud" perfumes contain only synthetic oud notes or diluted blends. Major fragrance houses today use a repertoire of aroma chemicals (e.g., Givaudan's "Black Agar" ) and artificial oud accords to mimic the scent of natural oud. While these synthetic alternatives capture aspects of the oud aroma (such as woody-leathery or smoky facets), they rarely achieve the depth and complexity of a genuine oud oil. Connoisseurs often recognize a flatter, more linear scent in synthetic oud fragrances. Nevertheless, such artificial oud components are important in perfumery to meet the growing demand and enable affordable oud fragrances without further endangering the threatened agarwood stocks.

Cultural and historical significance of Oud

Oud is not just a fragrance; it has always been deeply rooted in various cultures and religions . In the Arab world, oud (Arabic: Oudh ) enjoys almost cultic status: the burning of agarwood shavings as incense (bukhoor) is part of everyday life from Morocco to Oman. The sweet, balsamic smoke is considered a sign of hospitality; rooms, clothing, and even hair are perfumed with oud smoke, especially on festive occasions such as weddings or religious holidays. In many Arab households, it is a ritual to welcome visitors with the scent of burning oud. The Prophet Mohammed is said to have appreciated the scent of agarwood; oudh is mentioned in the Hadith as a noble incense. Oud smoke is also used in Islamic mysticism (Sufism) to create a spiritual atmosphere for meditation and prayer.

The oud tradition also dates back thousands of years in South and East Asia . In India, agarwood ( aguru in Sanskrit) has been known since Vedic times; ancient texts (ca. 1400 BC) praise it as the "fragrance of heaven" and a medicinal remedy. Ayurvedic physicians such as Sushruta recommended agarwood for, among other things, reducing inflammation and treating certain pains. In ancient China and Vietnam, agarwood was a sought-after incense for temple rituals and funeral ceremonies . Chinese chronicles from the Han period (2nd century AD) describe recipes containing chenxiang (oud) for making perfume at the imperial court. Buddhist monks in Tibet and Japan used the "fragrant smoke" of jinkō (the Japanese name for oud) for meditation and spiritual contemplation. In Japan, the art of kodō (incense ceremony) even developed in the 16th century. In this practice, various agarwood varieties, especially the legendary kyara, are classified according to their fragrance characteristics and sniffed through poetic games. The highest quality of oudwood was often reserved for emperors and kings: the historical trade in agarwood shows that it was worth more than gold. Thus, agarwood was reverently called "wood of the gods," and it can be found as a treasure in the excavations of pharaohs' tombs (as an addition with myrrh and frankincense for mummification) as well as in the treasuries of Chinese emperors.

Over the centuries, oud has built a bridge between cultures: From India and Cambodia, the resinous wood reached the Middle East and Europe early on via the Silk Road and Arab traders. In the Middle Ages, "Lignum aloes" (aloe wood) reached Europe via Venice and was mentioned in Bible translations (as aloe in the anointing of Jesus). These ancient fragrance traditions continue to this day, for example, when entire streets in the Emirates are filled with the scent of oud on major holidays, or when agarbatti incense sticks containing agarwood are burned in Indian temples. The millennia-old fascination with the aromatic agarwood remains unbroken and is reflected both in religious customs and in modern global fragrance culture.

Commercial aspects: price, market value, sustainability and alternatives

Its extreme rarity and laborious extraction make genuine oud one of the world's most precious raw materials . High-quality wild agarwood resin is traded on the market at prices comparable to precious metals, with top grades fetching up to $100,000 per kg. The global market for oud and agarwood products is estimated at $6-8 billion annually. The Middle East and East Asia remain the main sources of demand, but the market for oud perfumes is also growing rapidly in Europe and America. This high demand has, however, led to excessive harvesting of Aquilaria populations. Almost all 21 known Aquilaria species are now protected under CITES and are considered endangered or threatened with extinction. In many countries of origin, the export of wild-harvested agarwood substance is strictly regulated or prohibited.

To meet demand, there is increasing reliance on sustainable plantations and the artificial induction of oud. In plantations (including those in India, Malaysia, and Thailand), Aquilaria trees are deliberately "inoculated" with fungal spores or chemicals to produce resin within a few years. While such farmed oud rarely achieves the quality of decades-old wild oud, it is a viable method of relieving pressure on wild stocks . Some producers also blend other woods (such as the visually similar "crocodile wood") or use the non-resinous, light-colored wood of the Aquilaria for distillation to increase yields. However, such practices can diminish the quality of the fragrance. This makes it difficult for consumers to identify authentic oud ; the trade is riddled with counterfeits and dilutions, and trust plays a key role.

In light of this, synthetic alternatives are gaining importance. In recent years, the perfume industry has developed various oud-like molecules that can be produced inexpensively in large quantities. These laboratory-produced fragrances (e.g., Oud Synth 10760 E ) allow the use of oud notes in perfumes without consuming real agarwood. Furthermore, they are standardized in quality and scent, whereas natural oud varies from batch to batch. From an ecological perspective, such synthetic oud fragrances are a sensible alternative to make the coveted oud accords more widely available. However, purists complain that synthetic oud lacks the "soul," that elusive, complex magic that makes high-quality natural oud fragrance so unique. Therefore, a niche market for "pure oud" in the form of oil or incense wood continues to exist, fetching collector prices. In the long term, the industry faces the challenge of combining sustainability with tradition : through reforestation of Aquilaria trees, improved induction techniques, and stricter controls, future generations will continue to enjoy the "liquid gold" of oud without depleting natural resources.

Health aspects, aromatherapy and well-being

Oud is valued not only for its scent, but also for its supposed healing properties . In traditional aromatherapy, agarwood oil is considered calming, stress-relieving, and meditation-enhancing . In fact, agarwood has been used in folk medicine since ancient times: in Ayurveda , for example, for internal pain and as a sedative, and in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM, called Chénxiāng there) to promote the flow of Qi, for digestive problems and asthma, and as a mild sedative en.wikipedia.org . Inhaling the resin smoke or oil vapors is said to dispel anxiety and collect the mind, which is why oud is often used in meditation and prayer . Modern scientific studies support this tradition: inhalation of agarwood essence showed anxiolytic and antidepressant effects in animal models, comparable to common anxiolytics pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov . Apparently, ingredients in agarwood oil influence the GABA and glutamate systems in the brain, which are responsible for relaxation and mood (pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov ). Sedative-hypnotic effects have also been observed experimentally; mice exposed to oud oil showed reduced activity and easier sleepiness, suggesting a stimulation of GABA_A receptors (comparable to the effect of valerian or synthetic tranquilizers). In addition, anti-inflammatory and even anti-cancer properties have been identified in agarwood (pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov) , supporting its traditional use in various ailments.

In practical aromatherapy, oud oil is used primarily to relax the mind . A few drops in a diffuser or on the skin (highly diluted because it is concentrated) release a deeply calming scent that is said to help with stress, inner restlessness, or sleep problems . Meditators report that the scent of oud deepens concentration and creates an atmosphere of inner peace , which is why it is so popular in meditative schools of various religions. Oud is also said to have aphrodisiac properties, probably because of its sensual, warm aura. While clinically proven data is still pending, research on agarwood to date indicates that this “fragrance elixir” is more than just a perfume: It affects body and soul, connects cultures and eras, and fascinates us with an aroma that is both mystical and soothing .